01 02 03 Miss Smartie's Sewing: The Secretary Blouse: Construction Part Two: Sewing Instructions 04 05 15 16 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 31 32 33

The Secretary Blouse: Construction Part Two: Sewing Instructions

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All seam allowances of 1,5 cm are included in the pattern if not specified all seams should measure 1.5 cm.
If your fabric frays zig zag all pieces first.
In the illustration:
white pieces = right side of fabric showing
grey pieces= wrong side of fabric showing
blue parts= interfacing

Collar


1. Pin lower collar (7) to upper collar (10) matching symbols. Match interfaced pieces with interfaced pieces and non interfaced pieces with non interfaced ones. Stitch between circle and square. Press seam open.

2. Pin the interfaced collar pieces to the non interfaced collar pieces. Match all symbols. Cut in 1.3 cm at inner corner to be able to press seam flat. Stitch over the edges, breaking stitching at the square (inner corner) to make a couple of backstitches securing this point. Trim edges, turn right side out and press.

3. Baste neck edge.

Facing

1. Finish lower edges on back facing (8) and front facing (9) (with bias, zig zag or overlock).

2. Stitch front facing (9) to back facing (8) matching symbols. Press this seam open.

Body 

1. Pin front (2) pieces to side front (3) pieces matching symbols. Stitch between circles. Unpin unstitched seam. Press to center front.


2. Stitch back (4) to side back (3) with a French seam:
      2a. Pin back to side back right sides of fabric showing. Stitch 0.5 cm from edge.
      2b. Turn wrong side out, press along seam and stitch again 1 cm from edge.



















3. Stitch shoulders matching triangles and notch to French seam. Press this seam open.

4. With body spread out as shown in the illustration pin collar to body matching symbols (circles and triangles). Pin collar on fabric with the interfaced collar pieces at the bottom. Pin facing over body and collar, matching symbols and shoulder seams. Stitch making sure the layers won't get caught in stitching. (illustration is showing pinned collar only on right side and facing on left side.)

5. Trim the inner corner of front piece as sown on illustration. Trim though all layers of fabric.

6. Turn facing to inside of garment. Match with side and armhole seams. Baste facing to body of garment at 1 cm of the edge. Press the collar, right side out.

7. Close side seams.

8. Pin seam between left (when facing the garment right side out and front to back) front (2) and left side front (1) from circle down, press to the left.  Pin left edge of right front piece (2) over this seam, matching edges of fabric. Stich seam.

 9. Pin  left side of left front (2) with wrong side on right side of right front (2). Turn garment inside out. Close seam between rigt front (2) and right side front (1) replacing the pins keeping left front sandwiched between. Stitch.

Sleeves

1. Pin cuff (6) pieces together matching interfaced with non interfaced cuff, leaving the top open. Stitch 1.5 cm from the edge stitching over the edges. Trim, turn right side out and press.

3. Press under 1.5 cm seam allowance at the top.

4. Stitch side seam of sleeves. Cut lower edge of sleeve until circle.

5. Sandwich lower edge of sleeve between cuff. Top stitch 0.5 cm from edge of cuff.


6. Set in sleeve matching notches and circle to shoulder seam. Stitch easing in fabric at top of sleeve.

Finish

Finish with a 4 cm double folded seam: Measure off 2 cm of lower edge of garment. Press this under. press this under again. Top stitch at 1.5 cm from lower edge.

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Tuesday 13 January 2015

The Secretary Blouse: Construction Part Two: Sewing Instructions

All seam allowances of 1,5 cm are included in the pattern if not specified all seams should measure 1.5 cm.
If your fabric frays zig zag all pieces first.
In the illustration:
white pieces = right side of fabric showing
grey pieces= wrong side of fabric showing
blue parts= interfacing

Collar


1. Pin lower collar (7) to upper collar (10) matching symbols. Match interfaced pieces with interfaced pieces and non interfaced pieces with non interfaced ones. Stitch between circle and square. Press seam open.

2. Pin the interfaced collar pieces to the non interfaced collar pieces. Match all symbols. Cut in 1.3 cm at inner corner to be able to press seam flat. Stitch over the edges, breaking stitching at the square (inner corner) to make a couple of backstitches securing this point. Trim edges, turn right side out and press.

3. Baste neck edge.

Facing

1. Finish lower edges on back facing (8) and front facing (9) (with bias, zig zag or overlock).

2. Stitch front facing (9) to back facing (8) matching symbols. Press this seam open.

Body 

1. Pin front (2) pieces to side front (3) pieces matching symbols. Stitch between circles. Unpin unstitched seam. Press to center front.


2. Stitch back (4) to side back (3) with a French seam:
      2a. Pin back to side back right sides of fabric showing. Stitch 0.5 cm from edge.
      2b. Turn wrong side out, press along seam and stitch again 1 cm from edge.



















3. Stitch shoulders matching triangles and notch to French seam. Press this seam open.

4. With body spread out as shown in the illustration pin collar to body matching symbols (circles and triangles). Pin collar on fabric with the interfaced collar pieces at the bottom. Pin facing over body and collar, matching symbols and shoulder seams. Stitch making sure the layers won't get caught in stitching. (illustration is showing pinned collar only on right side and facing on left side.)

5. Trim the inner corner of front piece as sown on illustration. Trim though all layers of fabric.

6. Turn facing to inside of garment. Match with side and armhole seams. Baste facing to body of garment at 1 cm of the edge. Press the collar, right side out.

7. Close side seams.

8. Pin seam between left (when facing the garment right side out and front to back) front (2) and left side front (1) from circle down, press to the left.  Pin left edge of right front piece (2) over this seam, matching edges of fabric. Stich seam.

 9. Pin  left side of left front (2) with wrong side on right side of right front (2). Turn garment inside out. Close seam between rigt front (2) and right side front (1) replacing the pins keeping left front sandwiched between. Stitch.

Sleeves

1. Pin cuff (6) pieces together matching interfaced with non interfaced cuff, leaving the top open. Stitch 1.5 cm from the edge stitching over the edges. Trim, turn right side out and press.

3. Press under 1.5 cm seam allowance at the top.

4. Stitch side seam of sleeves. Cut lower edge of sleeve until circle.

5. Sandwich lower edge of sleeve between cuff. Top stitch 0.5 cm from edge of cuff.


6. Set in sleeve matching notches and circle to shoulder seam. Stitch easing in fabric at top of sleeve.

Finish

Finish with a 4 cm double folded seam: Measure off 2 cm of lower edge of garment. Press this under. press this under again. Top stitch at 1.5 cm from lower edge.

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