The Secretary Blouse: Construction Part Two: Sewing Instructions
All seam allowances of 1,5 cm are included in the pattern if not specified all seams should measure 1.5 cm.
If your fabric frays zig zag all pieces first.
In the illustration:
white pieces = right side of fabric showing
grey pieces= wrong side of fabric showing
blue parts= interfacing
1. Pin lower collar (7) to upper collar (10) matching symbols. Match interfaced pieces with interfaced pieces and non interfaced pieces with non interfaced ones. Stitch between circle and square. Press seam open.
2. Pin the interfaced collar pieces to the non interfaced collar pieces. Match all symbols. Cut in 1.3 cm at inner corner to be able to press seam flat. Stitch over the edges, breaking stitching at the square (inner corner) to make a couple of backstitches securing this point. Trim edges, turn right side out and press.
Facing1. Finish lower edges on back facing (8) and front facing (9) (with bias, zig zag or overlock).
2. Stitch front facing (9) to back facing (8) matching symbols. Press this seam open.
Body1. Pin front (2) pieces to side front (3) pieces matching symbols. Stitch between circles. Unpin unstitched seam. Press to center front.
2. Stitch back (4) to side back (3) with a French seam:
2a. Pin back to side back right sides of fabric showing. Stitch 0.5 cm from edge.
2b. Turn wrong side out, press along seam and stitch again 1 cm from edge.
3. Stitch shoulders matching triangles and notch to French seam. Press this seam open.
5. Trim the inner corner of front piece as sown on illustration. Trim though all layers of fabric.
6. Turn facing to inside of garment. Match with side and armhole seams. Baste facing to body of garment at 1 cm of the edge. Press the collar, right side out.
Sleeves1. Pin cuff (6) pieces together matching interfaced with non interfaced cuff, leaving the top open. Stitch 1.5 cm from the edge stitching over the edges. Trim, turn right side out and press.
3. Press under 1.5 cm seam allowance at the top.
4. Stitch side seam of sleeves. Cut lower edge of sleeve until circle.
6. Set in sleeve matching notches and circle to shoulder seam. Stitch easing in fabric at top of sleeve.