The Secretary Blouse: construction part one: pattern, fabric, markings and interfacing.
Preparing the pattern
|cutting of the white paper strip|
Tape together the pattern pieces you have printed. You will have to cut off the excess blank 0.5 cm on the edge of your paper, if you only need to do this on the left and upper sides of your paper since you can overlap the remaining white spaces.
|matching pattern lines while taping papers together|
|first row of largest pattern range|
After taping everything together you can cut out the pattern pieces. If you are making one size cut out that size (you will recognise it by the colour and the dots in the line) as securely as possible. If you want to make adjustments for a better fit since your size was not the same at bust and waist you can find a tutorial on how to do this here. (under construction)
Cutting out the fabric
Arrange your pieces on the fabric. The more experienced sewers can use the pattern layout above, witch I used for my fabric of 150cm wide. I did make one of the smaller sizes so that might make a difference.
If you buy 1,5 m fabric I think you will have plenty for this design in all sizes. I certainly didn't use as much but one meter would not have been enough. (In the end I used 90 cm of the full with of the fabric and a square of 60 by 60 cm for a size 2).
Fold your fabric in half from selvage to selvage with the good side of the pattern on the inside the stretch of your fabric should go horizontally. Lay out the pattern pieces as they have been drawn on the first picture above. Make sure you align the arrows perpendicular to the selvages (edges) of your fabric. Pattern pieces with arrows pointing to one straight edge have to be cut on the fold. Place these pieces on the fold you made in your fabric. If you are happy with the placement cut these pieces out, leaving the pattern attached.
Fold the remaining fabric over 30 cm with the right side in. Lay out the pattern pieces like the second drawing (bottom left). You might have to redo the fold to make sure all pieces fit. Cut these out too. Fold the remaining fabric over again, now folding over 45 cm. Cut out the remaining pattern pieces (picture bottom right).
InterfacingYou should use a pretty stiff interfacing for this pattern since the collar really needs to stand out. It doesn't necessarily have to be a stretch interfacing for the collar pieces (7 and 10) but I would recommend using a stretch interfacing on the cuff piece (6) since that will need to accommodate some wearing stretch when moving your arms.
Cut out interfacing as seen in the layout on the left. You will also need to cover 2 cm of the facing pieces (8 and 9) to stabilize the neckline. (this is visible in the picture as blue shaded areas) you can use scrap interfacing here if you like, putting the edge of the pattern piece on the interfacing and tracing it. You can also use two different straps for piece 9 one horizontal and one vertical if you overlap both slightly to save interfacing.
The next step is to apply the interfacing, this is mostly done by fusing (ironing) it to the fabric. Make sure you iron on the smooth side/ non shiny side, otherwise the glue will stick to your iron! You should also have mirror images of the facing for pieces 7 and 9.
MarkingsTransfer all markings (circles, triangles and squares) with your preferred method. I like to use carbon paper since it's easy. I put the fabric and pattern pieces on top of the carbon paper, trace around the markings, remove the pattern, turn over the fabric (with pins still in) putting the unmarked side on top of the carbon paper and then trace around the first markings. It's important to note that all markings should be made on the wrong side of the fabric.
Cut out all notches (small triangles stuck to the edge of your pattern).